Thursday, September 25, 2008

Pane Rustica


Pane Rustica
3225 South MacDill Avenue
Tampa, FL 33629


I have probably sampled every dish on the menu at Pane Rustica and although I would hardly describe the food here as exquisite, it does on occasion reach remarkably high standards. Even if pastries were on my “must eat list”, some of the offerings at Pane Rustic such as the cupcakes appear quite attractive yet remind me of the rather plain girl all dressed up for the prom. You look, admire and then make an excuse about the next dance. While I do enjoy the scones, their croissants are capable of transporting me to Paris, and the heavenly Gerard Mulot’s premises on rue De la Glacière.

I like all of the sandwiches at Pane Rustica but most often go for the Daily Special and then ask the counter person to suggest which bread would be most fitting. It’s a rather good test, you should try it. The soups can be so good I have been known to go back for more. The over salty and strange consistency variety has happened about four times, so we won’t dwell on them.

Most chefs I have known throughout the years will admit to snacking on pizza occasionally, some will even go to the trouble of making it. But none have ever expected a connoisseur such as I to review it. It is not that I totally dislike pizza, it is more that I find it so maligned in this country as to be unworthy of serious consideration. For the record, Pane Rustica produce a thin, crisp effort with a variety of edible toppings, mostly served cold.

The salads can be rather well prepared but you should insist on asking for the dressing to be used with a modicum of restraint. “Dressing on the side” will not do, either the salad was meant to have dressing or not. For dinner Pane Rustica prefer to call appetizers “Small Plates” for some confounded reason. Some agreeable items can be found such as the Mussels and Clams in a spicy marinara sauce.

And so to “Entrees”. (If you are going to Francophile, then please have the good manners to use the accent “Entrée”). There are some delights here such as the sea scallops, always consistent quality and well prepared. The meats are treated with respect and the accompaniments never appear as afterthoughts. Although the pastas are thoughtfully crafted and generously portioned I tend to avoid dishes I can prepare at home with little effort. Home cooking is not what I go to restaurants for. At Pane Rustica I most often choose a Seafood special and keep my fingers crossed that the server is up to speed on what has been 86’d. Occasionally the pairing of fish with a curious sauce or possibly odd root vegetable can cause raised eyebrows when perusing the menu. In most instances the concern is unfounded and I beam my renowned smile.

The wine and beer selection must be applauded for it’s seeming perverseness. Yes, it’s different and no there are hardly any familiar names to be found. There are more reds than whites and the prices may be exorbitant if you are eating pizza. The choices are from all over and one can only guess that whoever put the list together had fun and has a remarkable palette. The downside of course appears that the regulars at what I refer to as The South Tampa Canteen do not have a clue and prefer to order by price alone. I say this confidently from assiduous scrutiny and taking note of what bottles go out to each table.

I would gladly introduce any of my out of town guests to Pane Rustica; even those celebrity chefs who anonymously descend upon Tampa Bay seeking my approval. Yet I am hesitant to do so because of the eccentric standing in line at lunchtime and searching frantically for a vacant table. Why do people who put out such good food want to have such chaos in their dinning room? Despite this muddle I'm so pleased the place is busy.

Dinner should be better because there are wait staff (and a couple of them exceptionally good). Alas the seating often appears to be directed by a young person with absolutely no clue. Because the room is so big, with high ceilings, the noise level can be headache inducing, Couple that with an unusually inferior sound system and you have a challenging venue for delicious food.

Food: Consistent
Service: Confusing
Ambience: Conundrum